A Journey to Israel

Monday 10th of November

Dear Dairy,

Right now I am sitting in the Air France lounge, waiting for my flight to Israel!!!!!! Yes, can you believe it; J and I are off to Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. I am so excited, but also beginning to be worried since there was fighting at the Holy Church yesterday.

I feel like J and I are on our second honeymoon, but we shall see whether it pans out that way or not. I’m actually in business class, but by the time J booked his ticket, he couldn’t get a FF ticket In BC, so is flying cattle class. He thinks I will change to sit next to him (which I will) but in the meantime am having fun telling him that I won’t!

PM we have arrived and it’s already dark even though it’s only after 5. Not what I expected, going from the airport to the hotel, I was reminded in parts of Melbourne and in others of Bali! Quite a difference, but there it is. One standout thing, the taxi had to stop at a security check point, apparently to make sure that that particular driver had permission to be going into that area. Also when we got to the hotel, another checkpoint for all cars going in. Checking for bombs, which brought back memories of Asia after 9/11.

We have a fantastic view from our hotel room. We can see the beach! and the weather is fantastique.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS

Not what I expected. Tel Aviv is a very modern city, and is also on the beach, which runs for km’s. The people are extremely friendly and helpful, except for the odd few (as usual) but they are def the minority. I didn’t realise that the majority of the habitants are Jewish. For some reason, I thought it would predominantly be Muslim. I think it’s because the “I” countries sort of cement into one sometimes. Israel, Iraq, Iran. With so many killings in all 3 countries and religion being at the bottom of it, in my mind, they blend. But, now I know that the country is 76% Jewish!

Tuesday 11th of November

WOW today we walked to Carmel market, which was lots of fun, I do love markets and it was interesting to see all the Jewish items for sale (eg menorah’s, prayer hands, skull caps). And of course the breads and cakes. YUM-MEE

After the market we went to Old Jaffa. It is beautiful and only hope my photos do it justice. For lunch we had a “sandwich” which back in Oz, we called a swarma. Also YUM-MEE

Several times today, I had to open my bag to security, when entering a building, and even the crafts market. There the “patrols” do carry large guns, but I didn’t feel frightened by them. Actually, they are quite reassuring. But them again, we lived with this kind of security in Malaysia as well.

Diary, Tomorrow we are off to Masada and the Dead Sea, with a visit to Ein Gedi Spa!!!!! I can’t wait, despite the early start.

Wednesday 12th of November

Diary, did you know that there at two 6 o’clocks in a day??? Yes, that’s right. One very early in the morning! Somehow, I managed to get up and get ready. After a quick breakfast, we went down stairs to wait for the bus. It was a smooth ride and we had a nice tour guide (mind you, though she knew the information about Masada, ask her a question out of the ordinary and she was unable to help) and the bus driver was very friendly.

We had to pass Jerusalem on our way their, and boy, what a surprise that turned out to be. I guess, in my mind, (I think I need a new mind!) I was envisaging a small town, with donkeys and sheep etc! But to my wonder, it is actually a very large city, very modern and quite beautiful, as all the buildings are made of the same coloured stone. It’s called “Jerusalem Stone” and is quite pale in colour. It gives uniformity to the city. The road structure is like any other big city. Tomorrow we go to Jerusalem to stay for 2 nights, so should have a better description for you.

Masada was fantastic. Centuries of history and the oldest temple since the 2nd century. Masada means fortress. King Herod needed a place to retreat to, that was easy to defend. He found this hill and built a fortress around the edges, a palace within, and even corridors to store food in. He made big cisterns (built in tanks) for water. Even though it only rains about 8 times a year, when it rains it pours! and the cisterns filled up. Apparently the way the place was set up, 1000 people would be able to survive for 7 years!!!! It is a feat of engineering and has to be seen to be believed. The archaeologists did a great job excavating and restoring the place, and even placed a black line along the walls to let you know what they found (i.e. the original) and what parts they restored.

“ This isolated mountain-top fortress about 440m about the banks of the Dead Sea was fortified as early as the 1st or 2nd century BC, and then enlarged and reinforced by Herod the Great… After the Romans had crushed the rebels in Jerusalem, Masada remained the last Jewish stronghold.”

After Masada, we went to Ein Gedi Spa, had lunch and then the fun began. First of all, we were at the lowest point on earth! 411m below sea level. Can you believe it? Secondly, we got to put purifying mud all over our bodies, let it dry and then wash it off. Ok, it doesn’t sound that great, but it WAS, I guess you had to be there. Thirdly, we made our way to the Dead Sea (which is not really a sea, but a lake) and got to float in the densest water in the world. The water is so mineral-laden that it is around 26% solid. It is a strange feeling. You had to wear something on your feet, as the salt formations on the surface were hard and pointy and hurt! But then of course, it was hard to get your feet down onto the ground, because the flip-flops I was wearing were extremely buoyant in the water. I took photos of the salt formations and the size of some of the salt grains. Unbelievable.

The Dead Sea is 76km from north to south, and less than 116km across. However, the Dead Sea is endangered. Its water level has gone down 12m since the beginning of the 20th century. When you see the markers of where the water level used to be (in my photos), and where it is now, it is quite astonishing, and scary.

We got back to the hotel around 8, went straight up to the room.

Thursday 13th of November

We have arrived in Jerusalem. Sitting in the hotel lobby, waiting for our room to be ready so we can dump stuff, and Jason can do some work, while I go shopping! Write more tonight.

Spent my time walking around the old city like a lost sheep! It’s so easy to get lost. I did make it into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the most important in Christendom. I don’t mind admitting to you, my dear diary, that the church felt extremely spiritual, which is a huge admission for me, as you know, as I am not very religious. I’m not sure whether it was coming from the church itself of the fervent followers.

The church houses Christ’s Tomb. Inside an 1810 monument, a marble slab covers the rock on which Christ’s body is believed to have been laid. There was a huge line of people waiting to go in.

It also has the Stone of Unction, where anointing and wrapping of Christ’s body after his death has been commemorated since medieval times. The present stone dates from 1810. It was amazing to watch people kissing the stone, rubbing towels and other things against the stone, in order, I think, to, well, I’m not sure.

It is unlike any church I’ve been in, and I have been in quite a few this past year. Not as ‘pretty’ as other church’s, but still imposing. Its all stone and columns. Hopefully the photos tell a better picture than I do.

Got wet going back to the hotel. As I was trying to get into the hotel, the security man looked at me and asked what room I was in. I don’t think he was overly happy letting me in. But that’s life! Jason still working…

Friday 14th

Last night went to a restaurant called ADOM (no it’s not spelt incorrectly), which is in an old stone house, and had the most amazing menu selection. With food that lived up to our expectations. We had a good red Israeli wine.

The taxi driver convinced us to go to the National Diamond Centre (yes, I know what you are thinking, “how much convincing did Sandi need? However with a house hanging around our neck, empty for the past 11 months, diamonds are NOT on the agenda), however, we did go, (big mistake) and looked and looked and looked and talked and chose, and left without buying anything and finally proved that sometimes it is NOT better to have loved and lost, than not too have loved at all! I don’t think the guy was very happy. Not sure why ☺

After that, we went into Modern Jerusalem, had lunch at a restaurant that also had a 3 piece jazz band playing, so the atmosphere was great. Had a bit of a look-see, and then walked to the Old City to show J around. Took him to the church, then we went to the Western Wall (also known as the wailing wall). This wall is a massive blank wall built of huge stone blocks and is Judaism’s holiest site. It is part of the retaining wall of that was the Temple of Mount.

It’s amazing what a day’s difference make. Today, since it is the beginning of Shabbat, it was very quiet. Of course all of the Jewish stalls starting closing about 2 o’clock. The Christian quarter was alive and well. There was a large contingent of Christians walking around in a group, listening to prayers from a head priest and also singing. Once again, a strange sight. Most of the time I forget that there are very religious Christians in the world. Probably because they are much more quiet about it than, lets say, ardent Muslims???

Managed to buy a beautiful Menorah today. It was the one thing I did want to buy, as it a wonderful reminder of Jen. This way I feel like she is always with me. I already have one, as you know, but it was a cheapee from Party City, and wanted to replace it with something more meaningful. Plus, I do have a lot of Jewish friends, and love to share their faith with them.

Can’t believe our last day is tomorrow. We are off to Bethlehem! I’m not sure I can handle all this religious stuff, but I guess when you are in the Holy Land, it’s the least one should expect.

Saturday 1st November

Well it’s all over, diary. Dear Dear Diary.

This morning we left the hotel at 10am, and were driven to Bethlehem. Our first stop was a shop that sold ‘Olive Wood’ carved souvenirs. Crosses, Nativity scenes, etc. Along with jewellery and mother of pearl souvenirs. Of course we bought a few things. Couldn’t resist buying Bree a small wooden camel (I had seen them everywhere and fell in love), as well a small wooden nativity scene to put in her bedroom for Christmas. I bought myself a pendant of the Jerusalem Cross. It is different to our normal cross, in that it has the main big cross with 4 smaller crosses at each intersection (does that make sense?). I’II try and draw it later on, to give you an idea. There are 3 meanings behind this cross. One is, Jesus and the 4 gospels. The other is the 5 wounds of Jesus and the third is that the main cross is Jerusalem, and that the 4 smaller crosses represent the crusaders, Spain, Germany, Italy and England, who left Jerusalem to spread the word. Apparently, Israel is the only place in the world that you can buy this type of cross. I must admit, I have never seen one in a shop anywhere else before.

When we were finished, a guide came to get us, and take us to the Church of the Nativity. This church is built over the supposed spot where Jesus Christ was born, and, as such, one of the most holy Christian sites. It is built on “Manger Square”. Too get into the church; you have to go through the “Door of Humility”. Originally the door was quite big, but was reduced in size, to prevent carts being driven in by looters. To get through the door, you have to bow your head, hence, entering the church with head bowed. If you look at the photo closely, you can see the lintel of the original door.

Inside the church; Trap doors in the present floor, reveal sections of mosaic floor, surviving from the 4th century basilica.

Below, is the “Grotto of the Nativity”. A silver star set in the floor over the spot where Jesus is said to have been born. Just to the right of it, is the cradle where Jesus lay.

On our drive from the church to lunch, our driver took us to parts of the wall separating Israel to Palestine. I think it is so sad, that in the present world, such things still exist. But I must admit, someone/s has a sense of humour. I’II leave it for you to judge for yourself after you’ve seen the photos.

After leaving the church, our taxi driver took us to a restaurant that he considered one of the best in Bethlehem, and he was right! We weren’t given a menu, the taxi driver had asked the waiter to “look after us”, and looked after we were. Too much food to describe, you will just have to look at the photos.

When we had finished, we went straight to the airport, which was a journey in itself. Our taxi driver knows the area pretty well, so knew how to miss the major checkpoints, but we still had to go through a minor one. He advised us not to mention that we had been in Bethlehem, but that he had picked us up from our hotel in Jerusalem. It is interesting, people from Jerusalem are allowed in and out of Bethlehem, but the citizens of Bethlehem are not allowed into Jerusalem. I managed (to Jason’s horror) to take a photo of the security guards checking the passports of the car in front of us. Once we were through, I was smart enough to take the cf card out of the camera and exchange it with yesterdays card. You’ll understand why, shortly.

Ok. 1st checkpoint, after minor delay, we are through. When we get to the airport, another checkpoint. Again, another small delay. We pull over to the side, next to another cab. Our driver is having a chat with the other. We are given the go ahead, and as we drive off, our driver tells us that the other taxi had told the guards that they had been in Bethlehem, and would now probably have to submit to a thorough search. Our driver laughed, and told us he had told the other man to never admit things like that.

We arrived at the airport quite early, being Shabbat; there were no cars on the road. My flight had not opened, so J and I found a seat and had drink. Finally, at 3, I get in line for my flight, and this is where the real fun began.

Passports are being checked again. J is waiting in line with me, even though he isn’t coming home till the Monday night as he has meetings on Sunday and Monday. A young man comes to check our passports, and as soon as J says he is staying, is the moment when I became a ‘suspect’ (that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. It’s all J’s fault)

He walked away with our pp to talk to someone else, by this time we had begun holding up the line. There was no point in letting people past, as they still had to have their pp checked. Finally, after what felt like forever, he came back and questioned us more closely, and FINALLY, after sticking the No 5 sticker on my luggage, let me go on, telling J he had to wait for me on the other side of the ropes.

At this airport, you have to have all you luggage screened before you can get to the ticket desk. Let me begin by saying I had 5 bags. Yes, I know that’s a lot, but I was bringing everything back, except for J’s work stuff. And of course, I carry a camera case and a laptop case. After my bags had gone through the x-ray machine, I was asked to move to the tables where a more thorough inspection was to take place.

The first thing they want opened is my laptop case. Out comes the laptop. The girl, after swiping it for explosives etc, tells me she needs to take it to someone else. (Slight sweating begins). Someone else starts going through my suitcase. Very thoroughly. A third person starts to check my camera bag. The girl with the laptop comes back and asks me to take the battery out, and off she goes again. (Sweating a little bit more). The camera bag girl tells me she needs to take my camera to someone else. Okay, at this stage, I begin to panic in earnest. After all, I know there is nothing wrong, but what if they come back and say they found explosives (don’t you just love imagination?). I’m sure they would just love me accusing them of “planting’ the evidence!!! So I say to the girl, You’ve taken my laptop, and now you are taking my camera, am I getting them back??? And she laughed and said yes. (Slightly mollified). But now you can see, what a wise choice it was to swap the cards out. I can just see them in the back room, looking through my photos, and the very first one to pop up, the guards!

By this stage, I am obviously holding up the inspection of others, which puts more pressure on me, even though it’s not my fault. The girl going through my suitcase finds the Menorah I bought, and even this innocent object is subject to the “I have to take this away to be checked” routine. And NOW, a fourth girl comes over, which, (no really), put me at my ease… NOT. And starts going though my other two bags. Asking me questions, while the laptop girl comes back, tells me to put the battery back in my computer on, and turn it on. As I’m trying to field all questions, my palms are sweating and my hands are shaking. Laptop girl asks me to turn on my computer, and I swear, the computer must have felt my fear, because it refused to turn on.

In the meantime, Camera girl comes back and also starts asking questions. Panic Panic Panic. Finally the laptop turns on, and laptop girl asks me to open something. “Anything” I say, “Yes” she says. So I open, can you believe it, my business postcard AFTER I had sworn that my computer and camera were for personal use only! However, she seems satisfied and tells me I can turn it off and I can put it back in its case. Camera girl is also done. Menorah girl also comes back and okays the Menorah. And the fourth girl had an uneventful rummage through my other 2 bags!

Finally, they are all done, and I am escorted to the ticket counter. I’m hoping that this is a good thing, and not a “we need to watch this girl” thing. I get my luggage checked, get my boarding pass, and am escorted to the final (I hoped) inspection point. I get VIP treatment, and straight to a machine, which has no line. My escort speaks to the guys there (and I assume that she is telling them that they have gone through my stuff with a fine tooth comb and everything is ok) as my bags go straight through without a problem. But wait! There’s more. As I walk through the machine, I, set it off. Can you believe it? As I sit down to take my shoes off, I look back at my loving husband (who is behind the glass partition, as he isn’t allowed any further without a boarding pass), who is laughing his head off.

I take my shoes off and walk out and back through the machine as my shoes go through the x-ray machine. This time I make it through without setting off any alarms. Apparently my shoes have passed the test as well. As I’m putting my shoes back on, (I only bought them last week) I notice metallic hoops on the side!!! Ah huh, mystery solved.

Let me say, here and now, that even though it was extremely stressful going through the inspections, and I was swearing in my head that I would NEVER come back, the people doing the inspection were extremely polite, gentle and not at all intimidating. It was all in my head! And if this is what it takes to make it safe to fly, well then, inspect all you want. It’s just a pity that we live in a world that requires this kind of measure, to keep us safe.

Make a final wave goodbye to J and off I go.

Tuesday 19th November

A few days have passed, and I’ve had time to reflect. Summation? Had a fabulous time. Israel is an amazing place. I would LOVE to go back!!! And yes, it was like a second honeymoon, and despite J having to work on and off, I still love my husband.

The weather was fantastic and the people are lovely. Plus, they speak English. Can’t wait to start sorting through my photos.

Until next trip.

THIRD CULTURE LIFE

As an expat, I am continuously aware of the difference in the way I live my life, as compared to the friends I left "back home". Searching the internet the other day, I came across an interesting website, that contained the name of an article entitled "According to my Passport, I'm coming home"! written by Kay Branaman Eakin. The title immediately aroused my curiousity, as I have a daughter, 6 and a half years of age, who is an Australian citizen, who was born in Malaysia, has lived in 4 countries and NOT 1 of them is Australia!

To you my friends, I would love for you to read this article. It may give you a better understanding of my fears about returning to Australia. The link is below.

A rainy day in Paris

Today it's raining in Paris. Until now, we have been very lucky with the weather. But taking all into account, we (J & I) are off to Israel on Monday (YEAH), where the weather is in the low to mid twenties!!!